Camchain and tensioner seen up close in a cutaway bike engine

Home Repair And Restoration

Scottoiler Guide

Guide Date - 08 January 2017

By Bob Northern

Like many motorcyclists I have in the past bought a used machine which was fitted with a Scottoiler and like many motorcyclists I've dismissed it and relished the removal of the unit and it’s assorted “junk”.  One day however I purchased a bike with a properly fitted and functioning Scottoiler, the previous owner gave me half a bottle of the special blue Scottoil and so I rode the bike and topped up the Scottoiler reservoir as necessary. After a couple of thousand miles I realised that I had neither adjusted or lubed the chain and examination showed that the chain was moist with oil, properly tensioned and remarkably clean given the wintry conditions - I was converted.

Since that day I've run a Scottoiler on every machine I’ve owned, not doing so seems like utter madness to me now.

The Scottoiler system consists of the main unit called the VTV (I think) and an assortment of pipes and fittings. The system functions by using the vacuum generated in the inlet tract of the engine to open the valve in the VTV and thus allow oil to flow down the delivery tube to the chain. Therefore it is necessary to mount the main unit to the bike, route the oil delivery tube to the chain and route the vacuum tube to somewhere in the vicinity of the cylinder head. Let’s look at each in turn:

VTV - mount as close to vertical as possible as the system relies on gravity to deliver the oil. Mount the VTV as close to the rear sprocket as possible, the reason for this is that it takes less time for the oil to flow from the VTV to the chain which makes it much easier to check correct function and see the flow of oil change in response to settings on the flow rate dial. On my FX650 I’ve mounted the VTV on the swingarm as shown. Initially I was concerned that the VTV would be shaken to pieces by the undamped movement of the swingarm, but I can report no problems after extended off-road abuse.

The scottoiler VTV or bottle mounted to the rear of Bob's swingarm

Oil delivery - The oil flows from the VTV down a small bore pipe, I've found the best delivery arrangement is to use the metal bracket type mount attached under the rear spindle nut. The metal bracket can be bent to offer the delivery tube to the sprocket at a suitable angle. A small jubilee clip or cable ties (as in this case) secures a white plastic tube to the metal bracket and the oil delivery tube is an interference fit inside this tube. Finally, a very small diameter delivery quill pushes into the oil delivery tube. The quill is the part that rubs on the sprocket and delivers the oil.

The quill is a very tight fit in the delivery tube, but the delivery tube is a more loose fit in the white plastic tube, therefore the delivery tube can be pushed in or out of the white plastic tube to set the quill at the correct distance, which is just sliding across the face of the sprocket. The quill is designed to wear down over time and they are sold in packs as replacements.

There are fancy dual sided, spring loaded and other contraption style delivery ends around, all of them unnecessary as the simple single sided quill is all you need. Oil delivered to one side of the chain makes its way across to the other side (as is oil’s way). The more contrived delivery methods are more prone to be delicate and get in the way of wheel removal or chain adjustment.

The quill, or little pipe from the scottoiler feeding oil to the rear sprocket

Vacuum Take-off - On a multi-cylinder bike there are usually vacuum take-off points provided for balancing the carbs / throttle bodies. Scottoiler supply a range of spigots in different threads to suit your bike’s take off points. The spigot screws in and the vacuum pipe attaches with the supplied right angle connector. The right angle connector contains a brass filter mesh of the sort often seen in pneumatic fittings and serves to protect the engine against any debris being sucked in from the Scottoiler and also to dampen the vacuum pulses to protect the Scottoiler’s vacuum valve.

Fitting can be more difficult on a single. On my G650X Country I drilled and tapped a hole in the throttle body (after removing it from the bike obviously).  On my FX650 there is a vacuum hose which runs from the engine side of the carb body to the fuel cut-off valve on the right hand side. Adding a T piece in this pipe allowed the standard Scottoiler right angle connector to be used.

The T piece fitted to Bob's vacuum pipe allowing operation of the scottoiler

I adjust the oil flow so that the chain always looks moist. At that rate the reservoir will need filling every 400 miles or so.

A note on oil. I use the genuine Scottoiler oil as it's not expensive and it's what works with the oiler. The oil is blue and I think this is deliberate, occasionally you will get a dribble of oil on the floor under the front sprocket cover. The blueness of the Scottoil confirms that the oil on the floor is Scottoil and is not indicative of O/P shaft seal or worse O/P shaft bearing failure.

A properly fitted Scottoiler is a thing of joy. On a recent weekend off-roading in Wales I rode a total of 700 miles including many green lanes, on a 650 single and didn't need to adjust or lube the chain.

Reader's Comments

Ren - The Ed said :-
Many thanks to Bob for this post. I am still a Scottoiler virgin. I was wondering if anyone has experience wiyh similar products?
09/01/2017 07:37:25 UTC
Bob said :-
I tried the original squashy and the later push-button Lubeman oilers. Of the two the squashy one was more robust.
The Tutoro looks OK too, but you can't beat the fit and forget option of the Scottoiler!
09/01/2017 15:09:12 UTC
Ren - The Ed said :-
I've seen the ones where you give the button a quick squish from time to time Bob. I have a friend who swears by his. Did Scottoiler do an electrically operated one, I seem to recall hearing of such a thing.
09/01/2017 16:01:33 UTC
Bob said :-
Yes, there's a fancy electronic controlled version. I think it's double the price and I can't see the extra complication is worth it.
09/01/2017 19:18:57 UTC
Steve said :-
Hi

I am a new biker and have just bought a very nice TDM900 which has a Scottoiler installed. I want to make sure that a) it is working correctly and b) that my chain is ok. The inside of the chain has a regular covering of oil but the outside of the chain has a rusty look. Just wondering if this is normal for a well lubricated chain?

Thanks
17/04/2020 14:04:48 UTC
Upt'North said :-
Hi Steve, I am not the best person to give Scottoiler advice because I don't have one. BUT, no the chain should not be rusty. Come to think of it I haven't got a chain.
However, when I did run bikes with a chain I stayed clear of auto lube because of the damn mess they cause. If you are riding in mainly dry and non wintry conditions I would simply use spray on lube from a good manufacturer, check out a Ride review on chain lube on the interweb thingymabob for best buy etc.
If you are going to use it in foul conditions then I would think the outlet needs positioning correctly to ensure proper lubrication.
Spray lube is very good these days and you can buy small sprays to take on long trips.
The choice is yours.
Upt'North.
17/04/2020 16:29:02 UTC
nab301 said :-
I have used them in the past but I don't currently have a scottoiler. Supposedly 1 drop per minute with the engine running is the starting point. If used through winter, road salt can cause the side plates of the chain to rust ( depends on the brand of chain. ) maybe up the flow slightly by turning the adjuster on the RMV clockwise a small amount looking from the top. Ride the bike with the increased flow and ensure it isn't over oiling otherwise it may end up on the tyre Maybe try fitting a dual injector to lube both sides of the chain , I did use one but as the author of this thread suggests , they are fiddly to set up and infact after many years of use the RMV on my unit ended up damaged , I started brushing on gear oil regularly to my drive chains then and continued to this day....
Scottoiler have a good website with video fitting guides and printed faqs enabling you to check if your unit is fitted correctly, (see link below) and respond to email queries quickly in normal times although they appear to be closed during the current pandemic. If all else fails leave the unit as it is and brush on either scottoil or gear oil occasionally to the side plates . ( also confirm that there is actually scottoil branded oil in the reservoir blue is normal and red is for higher temperatures ( won't flow as well in winter)

http://kbvps.scottoiler.com/article/vsystem-troubleshooting.html...
17/04/2020 20:06:52 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
I hope that helps Steve. Thanks folks, I have no personal experience with Scottoilers so that's useful.
18/04/2020 09:00:04 UTC
Steve P said :-
Just fitted the New X system Scotoiler, all controls on the reservoir, easy to fit, adjust and works perfectly on my adventure bike (Royal Enfield Himalayan).
Have set to 1 drop per min for on road and I up it to 3 drops per min off-road and leave it there for a few miles after, chain is just right on wetness, no fling and clean.
Wouldn't be without one now on anything I do decent miles on, pays for itself in no time with savings on chains and sprockets as well as far less time adjusting.
Not fitted one on my RSV R yet, still thinking about it
13/03/2022 18:15:22 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Cheers Steve P. Scottoilers seem to polarise opinions, like marmite you either love 'em or hate 'em. I'm glad yours is working out for you. Himalayan and RSV-R? Now that's what I call an eclectic mixture of motorcycles, sounds like a lot of fun.
13/03/2022 20:23:49 UTC
Glyn said :-
I have to say that a Scottoiler was on the Diversion I bought and had oiled everything, rear tyre, number plate, inside mudguard / hugger unit, swingarm, under seat, over and under side fairing plus the mess inside the front sprocket cover and lower frame was dreadful. It was almost certainly because it was poorly set up but the state it had caused encouraged me to remove the unit and drop it in the bin. I now see a similar unit has been fitted to my recently purchased ZZR1100. Whilst the chain looks well preserved and properly oiled, the fitting into the inlet pipe had ruptured causing air to be sucked into no1. cylinder. So I now have the dilemma of leaving it in place or sending it for the same fate as the last one. I seem to remember that Upt' North and I had the same feeling about the first one because there are that many good, reliable alternative products on the market.
14/03/2022 12:40:25 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Ren is right they do polarise people. When I had a newish bike with x ring chain (Triumph Tiger 955i) I used Wurth chain wax and only had to adjust the chain once in the 20,000 miles I covered on it. And that adjustment was minuscule. The chain was in perfect condition when I sold the bike and yes I had ridden it in the rain!

For non O- and X-ring chains as I have on the Norton I use Silkolene aerosol which is far less mucky than a scottoiler.
14/03/2022 13:32:37 UTC

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