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Wonderous Wales And Epilogue
Ride Date 12 July 2025
By Ren Withnell
Oh no! It's the end of another holiday or trip or adventure or tour - whatever. That means back to work on Monday, back to reality, back to the routine. That means no more laid back rides and no more delightful scenery. All that is left to look forward to now is... is... is... nothing. There's nothing to look forward to. Anyhow today is Saturday, Monday morning is 48 hours away, that's all future Ren's problem.
Today Ren's problem is the blasted midges are still here. Ooooh ouch, as soon as I open the inner tent they're after me. I make a beeline for the facility block in the hope the little bleeders aren't in the toilets. There's less in the loos, I smear myself with more smidge. It's too early to wake Her Ladyship so I hide in the laundry room, trying not to look like a washing machine fetishist with a particular kink for coin operated laundry equipment. Trying, and failing.
Ooooh you little bleeders!
Oh what a magnificent sight!
As the sun dries off the morning dew the midges begin to dissipate, although the little bleeders still get me here and there. Even by the time Sharon has arisen and we're starting to pack the odd one gets me. Not Sharon, nooooo, Sharon isn't tasty, not like me. That being said Sharon gets bitten by mosquitoes whereas I seldom do. Weird.
With only 110 miles or so to do today and the sun finally dissuading the wee beasties from eating me - our morning progresses at a leisurely pace. We pack up slowly. We take time sitting in the sun watching the other campers while drinking tea. We meander up and down to the block for ablutions and to wash the pots. I daresay there might be some tardiness due to not wanting our trip to end.
Sunshine and warm, slow and easy.
We finally wobble our way out of Elan Oaks campsite at 1055, 5 minutes before the kicking off time. Through Rhayader and onto the A470 north. In glorious warm sunshine and the lightest of cloud we carve the corners, get frustrated with a little traffic, and enjoy the wonderful hills.
I have sat-nav programmed to lead us to The Llyn Clywedog Viewpoint. This takes us off the A470 at Llanidloes and onto the B4518. Oh I say - good choice Ren! The road is empty save for a few motorcycles coming the other way (a good sign) and filled with fast corners. I press on a little, waiting for Sharon on the straights, then pressing on once more. She's happy at her pace and these days she's not holding me up.
I... errr... I can't decide if I've been to The Llyn Clywedog Viewpoint before. I must have done, surely. We're not THAT far from home, I've been coming to Wales both man and child, I must have ridden this road? Maybe? Perhaps it was wet, perhaps I was young? I don't know but the road here is excellent and the views are stunning.
Great road to here and a great view when we get here. Lovely.
This is ridiculous. I hanker for The Highlands, The Alps, and The Picos, yet within 100 or so miles from my own grimy grotty home town there's places like this. I always think I know the UK so very well, I make out like I'm some kind of expert. Well this goes to show I still have an awful lot to learn. We stop to admire and take pictures, I make a point to actually look at it with my eyes and not the screen of my phone-cum-camera.
100 miles from Bolton - remarkable!
We rejoin the A470 and head towards Dolgellau where we fuel up outside of town. The A494 leads us north west towards Bala and the familiar yet still beautiful surroundings of Llyn Tegid. As we pass through Bala my thoughts turn towards the increasing levels of blood in my teastream.
The A470 ain't exactly ugly riding.
It is sad, but it appears to be true. The cafe called "Route 66" beside the Texaco petrol station in Glan-yr-afon is indeed closed. Google suggested as such but to see it with my own eyes confirms it. I liked that cafe, it was a proper cafe with good affordable food, local folks and no pretensions. Dagnammit! I have seen the signs for Cynwyd, where we stopped in winter 2024. There's no cafe there... but there is a pub we know.
The narrow tight lanes from Glan-yr-afon to Cynwyd are a shocking contrast to the fast flowing roads we've enjoyed so far. They're fine, we have no problems save for one overenthusiastic farmer trying to shove me into a hedge, I just think we're a little out of practice. Dodge the gravel and grass in the middle and we'll be just fine. Aha - the pretty bridge and the town.
I'm thinking a frothy coffee for the lady and a brew for myself. However Sharon's stomach is shouting at her that dinnertime was 2 hours ago and and something is terribly amiss. I spy they have a selection of Dirty Fries and the options look good. Guess what. We're dining. Oh my goodness we can both strongly recommend the Dirty Fries at The Blue Lion, Cynwyd. Yummy.
Dirty Fries was the right choice too in terms of portion size. We're riding home along the now familiar A5104 with satisfied rather than stuffed bellies, just right. Alas as the turning for the now defunct "Ponderosa" hoves into view the rain arrives. Not to worry, we don our waterproofs and from here our bikes can almost make their own way home without our assistance.
Epilogue.
And that's that once again. So, how was it?
Fabulous, thanks for asking. We've had a little rain and an hour of the worst rain known to man, otherwise we have enjoyed good weather. It has been a delight to NOT have big mile days planned along with low or no mileage rest days. It's been good to see my dad and his wife. Marlborough was lovely, Elan was beautiful, Yup we've done great.
The main takeaway for me has been how nice it's been to take it really easy. This notion of taking it easy is not without it's problems though. If we were retired AND wealthy then taking not one, not two, but say three weeks to get to Italy for example would be fine, in fact I'd say delightful. Regrettably we're not retired nor wealthy so time and costs are always against us. Of course I'd like to ride to Italy, but with 2 weeks holiday and a limited budget - we can't take it easy.
It's not often we get to be so chilled on a trip.
This taking it easy affects our plans and limits our range. I have friends who've "done" Spain or Italy and back via France in 2 weeks. They come back with tales and pictures and worn out tyres. However when we get talking to them properly all they've seen are motorways, service stations, campsites and nearby bars. If that's your thing then great, go for it, but it's not for us.
I have suggested to Sharon the problem is she's not rich enough. If she were stinkingly rich it'd be fine. She seems to think I'm the one who's not rich enough. Pfffffft. I can't help it if I'm a lazy wastrel.
I always knew Sharon loves trees, Marlborough's Postern Hill campsite demonstrated just how much. You know I can't stand to see her so happy so it's been good to hear Postern Hill is now permanently closed. I'm being mean - sorry - Postern Hill's closure is a shame. I'm not tree mad myself but the campsite was conveniently located, well priced and a pretty place to be. Dagnammit.
Look how HAPPY she is! Grrrrr.
Elan Oaks is a lovely location and well facilitated. It's also blummin' expensive. I... I would use it again at a push but it's too expensive to use regularly - which is a shame. It's within an easy day's ride for us and with the area being so nice it'd be great to pop down for a weekend away. I'll have to look and see if there's something more affordable in the area.
Anyhow that's that. The end of another superb journey. Next!
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
Dad's And A Detour Prologue
So come on Ren, what's the excuse this time? A few notes on the where's and why-fors of a lightweight tour south of The Ship Canal.
A Good Start To Heading Saaaf
It's an easy and chill ride today as The Dynamic Muppets make their way southbound. A lucky cafe find, a lovely village and fun in a pub? This can't be Bikes And Travels, surely?!
It Was Going OK, Until It Wasn't
With only 150 miles to cover the threat of rain is only a minor inconvenience really. Sharon makes some new friends en route and they both enjoy the countryside riding. It's the last few miles that are a problem.
An Easy Ride And A Woodland Sprite
It's a short ride today for the Dynamic Muppets and the accommodation transforms Sharon into an ethereal being. Ren is happy because he gets to be grumpy. Business as usual.
A Day Out From Marlborough
Another easy rest day for the not so dynamic muppets. Sharon's happy with trees, Ren's happily mansplaining locks, and there's Curry for tea. What's not to like?
Perfect Weather And Parking Problems
The weather is wonderful, the scenery is great, the bikes are behaving. Fear not Ren will always find something to moan about and a reason to be narky.
Chillin' In Mid Wales
There's sun in the sky, the roads are good, the surroundings are pleasant, and Ren is having a terribly non-Ren moment. His wallet saw the light of day...
Wonderous Wales And Epilogue
The ride home from The Elan Valley gives our Dynamic Muppets some delightful scenery - which confuses Ren. It's also time to wrap up the tale.
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