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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland
5 Ferries In One Day
Ride Date 10 June 2025
By Ren Withnell
Oh poop. Yeah it's today innit. 5 ferries. I've never been on 5 ferries in one day - I wonder how many people can actually say that they've been on 5 different ferries in one day? As a percentage of the population I reckon it'd be a small number. Don't count your chickens yet Ren - we've not even started the bikes let alone got to the first one.
Outside the sun is up even at 0530. So is Rob, Rik won't be far behind. I have the first brew of the day to straighten my mind then later wander down the corridor to see if Her Ladyship needs awakening. I find her in bed still but on her phone, she's awake at least which makes her far less scary. Breakfast comprises of a simple bacon butty which Rob has rustled up. Soon we are all gathering ourselves into jackets and boots.
The ferry is set to leave at 0915, we must be there by 0845. Google maps suggests it's a 7 mile 15 minute ride. And yet here we all are, loaded up and ready to ride by 0750. We get to the end of the driveway when Sharon stops her bike and starts flapping her arms around. She's forgotten to put her back protector on. This... THIS is why I like to leave early. I go back and get it for her. We hit the road properly by 0800, still plenty of time.
There's definitely a rush hour. Let me compare this to home - the rush hour here is akin to Bolton on a Tuesday evening at 2100 - there are cars around but they're all moving, not swiftly but moving. There might be 3 cars at the lights, one before us at the junction, that kind of thing. Smashing, I can live with this quite happily.
We book in at the terminal, it seems I managed to book us all in successfully on Sunday night. We join the queue at the front of one of the lanes as instructed and get settled in to wait. There is no cafe and be warned, there's nowhere for riders to hide from the weather either. There are toilets and luckily for us the weather appears to be with us as the clouds clear and blue skies appear. We might be alright after all.
Sharon has escaped the asylum once more.
This is a 1 hour 15 minute crossing. As such the bikes are strapped down by the deck hands while Rik watches like an expectant father, fearing for his chrome, paint, seat and sidestand. This ferry is "inbetween". Eh? It is neither set up for a short crossing (stay with the bike) nor a long crossing (seats, cafe, etc). We cannot stay with the bikes but we can sit in rather ordinary seats, or wander outside admiring the scenery. There's a couple of dubious vending machines, otherwise nothing else.
All aboard!
We sit, then we wander. I guess most folks inside are likely regulars, they look bored by the whole affair. Outside the sun is warming as Arran slowly heaves into view, mountainous and looking all the part "Highland". This sends a shiver of anticipation along my spine. It has been a long time (a year), far too long a time.
I'm beginning to suspect Mark is sharing my fears over 5 ferries. "Are we on schedule? What time's the next ferry? Are we OK?" I always assume everyone else is as cool as ice and I'm the only one flapping. Mark however has good reason. His medical complications mean if this all goes belly up he could be stuck without meds and other kit to manage his ailments. This brings into perspective just how stupidly lucky I am. My time will come, I hope not for many many years.
It's 1030 before we're leaving the terminal. Rik is relieved his Harley remained in good order, I assure Mark it's fine, we have plenty of time. We have a balance to strike. We don't really have time to ride all around Arran, but we have enough not to go straight to Lochranza. We cross the island via "The String" from Brodick west to Blackwaterfoot. The road flows well through the mountains - oddly without feeling like we're in mountains? I don't know - I'm just not feeling mountainous? Go figure.
Blackwaterfoot is every bit the small Highland coastal village though. The harbour is a tiny safe parking area for 4 or 5 rowing boats, there's an eclectic collection of houses both old and new, a hotel, and finally it is time for me to pull out all the cliches. Across the waters we can see the - ahem - majestic, wonderful, marvellous etc etc etc hills and mountains of The Mull of Kintyre Peninsula.
Between the bench and the bridge? That's the harbour.
The ride north along the A841 is also captivating, particularly with the sun glistening off the water. I'm facing the Highland dilemma - I wish to attack the road and relish the corners, I wish to ride slowly and relish the scenery. We cannot have it both ways so I'm switching between the two. It is best to actually go slow on the straights as this is where you CAN soak in your surroundings.
As we approach Lochranza I see a ferry! Presumably the ferry we are intending to catch? It runs about every hour and a half, to miss this one wouldn't be a disaster but ideally it'd be good if we can catch this one. I squirt a little more petrol into the barrels. Oh I wish I had a bike mounted camera, the scene is the perfect cliché of Highland island life.
We are here before the ferry and the parking area is filling, but not full, we should be fine. There now follows a public information service announcement by Bikes And Travels for would be travellers in this area.
At many (not all) of the "turn up and cross" ferry terminals there are parking spaces where you wait for your ferry. The parking area is sized roughly about what the ferry can carry. The implication is if you can get onto the car park you'll likely be getting onto the next ferry. If not... you may still get on but don't be sure.
One recent change is a sign - I paraphrase - "Pay for your crossing online at Calmac.co.uk". Does this mean you MUST pay for your crossing online before boarding? Or does it mean you can pay online for your crossing beforehand if you so desire? As the ferry gets ever closer I think we can still pay on board, everyone else is panicking which is a remarkable change from the norm. Phones are out, fingers are flying... I remember how bad Calmac's booking system is, I know they don't have a chance before the ferry is docked and unloaded.
"Let's just get on!" Phones away, engines started and onto the ferry. The ramp goes up and we're away, if we MUST pay before crossing it's too late now. Previously someone with a ticket machine and a satchel full of change used to ask you to pay - like a bus conductor from the 60s. Now if you did not pay online you must go into the narrow pedestrian seating area and queue to pay. This we do, we can pay cash or card! Oh how modern.
This is a half hour crossing but you still remain with your bike on deck in the bowels of the vessel. If the sea is steady enough and you trust your sidestand you can wander upwards to to take in the views. On that note - if the crossing is rough you'd still need to leave your vehicle to go and pay. How's that going to work?
We are on! But there's not a lot of spare space.
Views from the ferry. Dead calm today.
We disembark the ferry straight onto a single track lane. There are a couple of cars that scoot off then a small Citroen hatchback with Dutch plates is in our way. Now - I do not care if you wish to drive slowly, that is fine and it is something I too enjoy. But! Let other people pass!! One mile, 2 miles, 3 miles... I'm weaving left and right, flashing my lights and tooting my horn occasionally.
Nope - the driver will not stop in the numerous passing places to allow us to pass. There are 5 motorcycles and I guess another 4 or 5 cars all dawdling along, all waiting to pass. Not to worry, well be off the single track in a couple of miles. The main A83 is not much better and the car barely raises it's speed - and still I cannot get past safely! Myself and Rik get by just before Tarbert. Grrrr!
Tarbert is comfortably familiar and looking pretty in this glorious sunshine. I know where to park, I know there's a cafe here and I know there's a Co-op here too. Oh, and our next ferry is just up the road.
The cafe is busy and bustling, there's confusion as to if we can get in, who's next in the queue and whether or not we should just go to the Co-op for a meal deal. Oh wait - we can get in, we're all soon sat and ordering sandwiches and hot drinks. My chilli chorizo sandwich is rich in flavour and everyone else seems happy with their scran so we enjoy our rest and chat.
I guess Unicorn enjoyed its sandwich too.
Tarbert looking delightful.
The time is 1420. According to the timetables the next ferry is 1500. We, well, errr, ideally we might be a bit behind where we should be but I'm not flapping. Not yet. Mark is still asking if we're OK - it makes a refreshing change to not be the only one worrying. We really do need to catch the 1500 ferry so I lead us directly to the terminal, sorry, ramp. There is nothing more than 6 painted car spaces and a concrete slab leading down into the water. There are 2 car sized spaces left on the ramp, enough for 5 bikes. Phew!!!
As the ferry crosses visibly from the far side a couple of other cars arrive. If my logic is correct theoretically the cars NOT in the painted bays may have to wait another hour to cross. As the small ferry docks it is quickly obvious there is actually more than enough space for all of us. Again we have to leave the bikes on their stands to go and pay, otherwise all good.
The ferry from Portavadie
A smaller ferry but with a little more space on this crossing.
Looking back towards Tarbert's terminal.
Yes we are definitely in The Highlands. We're on a sinuous road curving its way through hills and valleys, mostly 2 lanes but occasionally a lane-and-a-half. Trees and rocky outcrops then spiky grasses and thistles on open land, Loch Ruel occasionally can be seen. I'm hard on the throttle then slowing down to take in the view, powering through a corner only to slow at the crest of a hill to take is all in. The A8003 is a joy.
The A886 is a cracker too, although we encounter a little more traffic here. As we approach the ferry terminal at Colintraive I slow down to bunch us all back together and make the turn. That, that was a damn fine ride that. The Cowal Peninsula is again forgotten and overlooked, and long may it remain so.
There is a proper ferry terminal at Colintraive complete with a small ticket office with 2 or 3 staff. We have just missed this ferry, it's just about to depart but the next one is only half an hour off. We also must pay for this crossing here - AND we can pay for the crossing from Rothesay to Wemyss bay here too if we wish. Yes - I pay for all of us on my card. Fear not dear reader, I have not lost my mind. I immediately get the cash of everyone.
I'm more relaxed now. It's about 1610, we can catch the 1630 ferry onto Bute and there's a roughly 1700, 1800 and 1900 crossing to Wemyss Bay. We'll likely catch the 1800 keeping the 1900 in reserve. We chill and chat in the sunshine, meander around, and Rik gathers ever more images of the unicorn teddy in various situations. Aha - the ferry is returning.
It is a short crossing on a big and mostly empty ferry. I recall it was short last time we were here and that we're not too far from Rothesay and the next ferry. Let me see, it must be 1640? It'll be 1700 by the time we get to Rothesay and we'll just miss the next ferry. That's fine, it'll be good to get a brew and/or a brief look around Rothesay.
Aha! Bute is but a short crossing away.
It's a larger ferry this one and Sharon seems happy with it.
Hmmm. I thought it was further. As we roll into Rothesay I'm reminded it is quite a nice town and oh! There's the ferry, the port is open. "Have you got tickets?" Yes we have so we roll straight on. I guess we'll not be taking tea in Rothesay then huh? At least this way we can be sure we're back on the mainland and not too far from the bungalow. The bikes are strapped down by the deck hands once more, Rik double checks...
Straight onto the ferry and we're away.
This ferry does have a cafe - kind of. We pay a small ransom for hot water and a tea bag in a paper cup, we have to apply our own sugar and milk from a well used and scruffy stand. We sit in a busy and cramped seating area among our helmets and jackets and tank bags etc. However I can feel a weight sliding off my shoulders.
We've done it. We've only gone and done it! As we dock at Wemyss Bay and unstrap the bikes I feel a mixture of relief and elation. Relief in that we haven't had any cock-ups, relief that we've struck lucky with the ferry timings, relief that all the ferries were running, and relief that we're back on the mainland. I'm equally elated that we have had - frankly - a most wonderful day. The weather has been ideal - warm, dry and sunny. The scenery has been Highland beautiful. The the riding has been mixed between fast and silly through to slow and relaxed.
We return to the bungalow via Dalry, fill up the bikes at the Tesco in Kilmarnock while grabbing a few more supplies, then back to the bungalow. Rik cooks up tonight's meal and later Sharon and I take a dip in the hot tub. Sharon loves this kind of luxury, lazing in the warm water with a glass of wine and bubbles. Me? Yeah it's OK and I'm happy to join her with my cup of tea.
The evening rounds off with another light hearted movie in the living room. I'm knackered and almost nodding off, although it seems I'm not alone. We are all in bed early once more. What a day! Yes I had my concerns but that makes the success all the more enjoyable. We have been blessed with great weather, timely ferry crossings, terrific scenery, and good riding. Plus I got to share it with friends.
By Sharon Parker
We are up early and as such we are all on the bikes early and ready to ride. Ren will be nervous about timings on the ferries, I am nervous about the ferries themselves. I have done ferries before but that was BC... before the crash. I know other people get nervous on ferries because I have read such things. So tell me again why the hell am I doing 5 in one day? Because I have told myself that it sounds fun, it's a challenge and I am capable. I just need to relax, trust myself and the bike and it's non sticky Dunlop tyres (it's fine, I'm sure it's fine).
30 seconds out of the gate and I'm thinking something feels off here, something not right. Maybe it's just nerves and...no hang in a minute, I know suddenly exactly what's wrong. My jacket is too loose which means I have forgotten to put on my back protector. Great, that's a good start. Ren retrieves my back protector and it's a short journey to the first ferry port.
We are early so our bikes are at the front of one of the lanes. The sun is out, the sky is blue and that makes me happy. We are soon joined by a group of other bikers on an assortment of bikes and we kill time by chatting and searching in vain for a cafe.
Troon Ferry Terminal. No cafe but luckily no need as no rain either.
The ferry to Arran arrives. We wait patiently until directed to board. Ok here goes, let's do this. Keep those nerves in check and ride onto that deck. Riding the bike onto the ferry was, dare I say, easy. The bikes are strapped down by the crew and we go to explore what is on board.
First ferry, all aboard.
Well not a lot it seems, I was hoping for a nice cup of tea to celebrate my success at staying upright so far but there is no cafe, just a couple of vending machines, neither of which have hot drinks. Seasoned passengers begin to pull out their flasks - damn it I really really want a cup of tea now. Tea envy, that's a new experience.
Arran here we come.
The crossing is calm and Arran draws closer rather quickly. I am looking forward to riding on Arran. I have seen some lovely photos of this island. I do the usual inept job of trying to get the straps off my bike and I wait like a damsel in distressed leather for Ren to do it for me. Ok so I am not wearing my actual leather jacket today but you get the idea.
I'm feeling better on the bike today and enjoying riding in the sunshine. We stop off for a stretch and I wander to the pebble shore. I am impressed by the crystal clear water.
Blackwaterfoot's water is actually crystal clear.
Blackwaterfoot's wonderful scenery.
Back on the bikes and the road follows the coastline. It rises and falls, it twists and it turns and it's all rather fun apart from the fact that the road surface itself is not always the best. The eyes must not linger on the views too long because you need them on the road to avoid yet another pothole and to keep out of the loose gravel. For this reason by the time we reach the ferry terminal, although I really enjoyed the ride, I don't really feel like I have seen Arran at all. This feels very much like the whistle stop, I mean you are not going to see much in just over an hour's ride anyway. I can't really give any opinion on Arran, this visit was just too fleeting.
After negotiating the first ferry successfully I'm more relaxed about boarding ferry number two to the Mull of Kintyre. All our bikes board the ferry with ease and the sun is still shining and the sea is blue. Once off the ferry we get stuck behind a slow car. I can feel Ren's frustration, but I'm ok, I'm chilled today and I'm happy to bumble while looking around at the scenery.
We park up at the now familiar to me Tarbert. I'm happy to see it's not changed from my memory and I'm very pleased to realise I'm feeling relaxed on the bike today. Go figure? Well I don't have time to ponder the reasons as it appears men's bellies are empty and need feeding. Into a crowded cafe we go - thankfully securing ourselves a table. The food is scrumptious, the company entertaining and the view is serene and calm.
I am really happy and just feeling good. Maybe all of these things combined is why I'm feeling better because how can you not feel better in a place like this, on a sunny day.
Tarbert. Familiarity does not always breed contempt.
After a stroll around the harbour we make the short journey to ferry three. It's not a terminal as such, just a kind of slip way but it's very pretty.
Picturesque place to await a ferry.
We repeat the on-off ferry routine and once again on dry land have a fabulous ride along Loch Ruel. This is the Scotland I love. Riding alongside a loch shimmering in the sunshine, the age old mountains looming in the background and trees clothed in their green summer finery. This is thrilling and exhilarating and it forces little whoops of sheer joy out of my mouth and into the ether. That feeling of space, of the raw nature, of beauty and drama. All of this is my Scotland and oh do I love you.
The next ferry has a more standard terminal set up. Ferry 4 will take us onto Bute.
Ferry to Bute.
Ready to ride.
I have rode Bute's roads before on the Kawasaki Z250. I don't believe the Z500 travelled at twice the speed of the Z250 once on Bute but why are we already at the other ferry in the blink of an eye? Ferry 5 is there awaiting boarding. I don't have a chance to remember Bute and I feel a little cheated. I recall it being worth a good look but that is not happening today.
Goodbye Bute.
Ferry 5 into Wymes bay is the only ferry I find a little tricky. The deck hands want the bike pushed backwards into their allocated slots to be strapped down. Pushing your bike backwards when you barely touch the floor with your feet is not easy but I managed it, phew.
Tricky manoeuvre for a hobbit.
Back at the bungalow I celebrate the success of the 5 ferries challenge in style - in the hot tub with a glass of wine. As the powerful jets work their magic on my muscles I ponder today. I am proud I did 5 ferries in one day. It was a great challenge and it was one I enjoyed. We had chosen today for the challenge because the weather forecast said it was the best day. We were fortunate this was true. I doubt the experience would have been much fun if we were battered with rain the whole day. So although I enjoyed it and it was worth doing it is not something I would necessarily repeat again. Why? Because I am a languid lizard at heart and do not like to be on a constant time restraint. The challenge left little time for spontaneous stop offs to look and explore.
I know of people who race on their bikes through Europe racking up impressive mileages. But I always wonder what they see. I am no hare, I'm a tortoise and when it comes to feeling a place, soaking it in and letting its very essence enter my soul then the tortoise wins the race every time.
I'd rather see less places but explore each place slowly. If I take the time to get to you then I want to really look at you, feel you and breathe you in. I prefer a longer affair to a brief encounter.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
5 Fools For Kilmarnock - Prologue
The tales of mishap and trepidation leading up to this adventure is not for the faint hearted. Gird your loins we're only at the planning stage so far...
Bungling To The Bungalow
The first day of the South West Scotland Adventure is a total washout. Ren is moist and Sharon is leaking - and yet it's not all bad at the end of the day.
Let The Fun And Fretting Begin
It's the first ride out of the week, an easy one to get things going. Girvan provides the destination for a simple ride that'll get Ren fretting as usual.
Some Rain, A Unicorn, And Disorder
What is Ren doing today? No, he doesn't know either. Mist, rain, cafes and slippery roads are on the menu, plus there's a new member in the group.
5 Ferries In One Day
5 ferries? In one day!? Surely not (don't call me Shirley). That'll be 5 fools on 5 bikes attempting to use 5 different ferries. What could possibly go wrong? Not a lot thankfully.
Reader's Comments
Upt'North ¹ said :-
When you first mentioned this I thought why wud ya.
But, yes I get it now. Glad you all hot round without the stress causing your helmets to explode.
I think you could probably sell this story to someone. Motorcycle Sport and Leisure perhaps?
I wouldn't think it's a popular achievement, it may even be a first.
Thank you leaders.
Upt.
16/08/2025 09:45:53 UTC
Ian Soady¹ said :-
I agree with your first comment Upt' and after reading the story from both viewpoints still feel it would not be something I'd attempt. To me, ferries are merely a - sometimes uncomfortable - means to an end, even with the "luxurious" commodore cabins on Brittany Ferries.
Re people not letting you get past on single track roads - during my only foray on the bike north of Glasgow I encountered exactly the same only with a (British registered) motor home which drove at an unvarying 20 mph past innumerable passing points despite my blowing horn, flashing lights etc. In fact I got so cross and bothered I even missed my intended junction! I think the NC500 as it's now known has just got too popular.
16/08/2025 10:42:46 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
The Scots are great at getting out of your way it's all the blummin grockles that are a PITA.
Although the most courteous drivers in my experience at getting out of a bikes way are the Frenchy Francais Monsieurs. Most amenable.
Plus they serve wine at the right temperature, probably even when driving.
Upt.
16/08/2025 18:06:44 UTC
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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland