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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland
Let The Fun And Fretting Begin
Ride Date 8 June 2025
By Ren Withnell
The bed is a little softer than I'm used to and I had been concerned I might not find it comfy. Judging by the amount of sleep I've had there's no problem. Mind you it's 0530 when I rise, but considering we were in bed by 2230 I'd say that's spot on. As my bleary eyes gain focus I can see it's grey outside, the forecast today is mixed rather than a washout.
Rob is up and about too and we sit in the kitchen pondering our life choices while drinking tea, strong, Rob likes it strong. The first thing we need to address today is Sharon's leaky waterproof situation. There's a "Sports Direct" in Kilmarnock which seems to be an obvious place to start. Otherwise the day is ours and we peruse maps on our smartphones.
Eventually Sharon arises looking refreshed after yesterday's tribulations. Mark is spotted resplendent in undies, mercifully he's dressed before presenting himself in he kitchen. Rob being Rob cooks a breakfast of eggs, beans, sausage and bacon which we all guzzle down gratefully. It's a slow start but that's fine, we've no grand plans today.
Sports Direct doesn't open until 1000, we're on the road around 0950. Sharon wisely chooses to rest by taking the back seat of my 500 rather than riding her own 500. Sat-nav is great but it can't fix stupid. I'm looking for a retail park and associated car park much like the Sports Direct at home. Sure enough I sail past the parking sat-nav is taking me to because, well, it's doesn't look like it does at home. Around the block, around the houses, I get it right second time.
As Sharon selects some appropriate pants we're outside - in the sunshine! Being June as soon as the sun makes an appearance it is scorching hot, we're sweating in our kit. There's a charity run in Kilmarnock this morning and we have to dodge the runners and spectators to get back to our bikes. The runners are sweating and panting, not a one of them looks happy - why do people do this to themselves? Charity, they do it for charity. Apparently.
I have Girvan programmed into the sat-nav. Why? We're not looking for a massive ride today, we're just looking for a nice easy jaunt with hopefully somewhere pleasant to have a brew when we get there. It's around 33 miles to Girvan, there's a harbour and the sea there and, well, none of us has any better ideas. As stated in the prologue I do have my concerns about keeping ourselves entertained.
Somewhere (I forget where) I am leading us along the A77 dual carriageway. Myself then Mark have just finished overtaking a truck when I notice Rob is stuck alongside the truck, with a police car behind him. Come on Rob! It's a dual carriageway national speed limit, 70? Oh I dunno what is going on. We get chopped up through the roundabouts a bit then he's soon back behind us.
Once south of Ayr the land is arable with soft rolling low hills and deep green fields. It is a pretty area and in the sun I'm rather enjoying the ride. Eventually the sea appears to our right and Ailsa Craig looks like an out of place ginormous upturned bowl, as though the giants from Giant's Causeway (not too far away) have left the washing up.
Ailsa Craig the upturned bowl.
I cannot say Girvan is the prettiest of harbour towns I have ever visited however it is perfectly pleasant, it is much as you'd expect from a mid-sized harbour town. We take pictures of the harbour and the coast and of course Ailsa Craig. Did you know Ailsa Craig is where the stone comes from to make curling stones? I am a fountain of useless knowledge.
As we wander Rob tells me he was stuck beside the truck on the dual carriageway as it's a 50, not a 70. Surely not. Noooo. Erm. Oh lordy I'm doubting myself. Was it? I mean we didn't get pulled over but the A77 is filled to the brim with average speed cameras and god knows what else. No. But. Oh crap. Urgh. That'll be me stressing for the next few weeks. I am SO careful, I believe speed limits are a good thing but I am human and I do make mistakes. Crap.
Fishing must still be a thing in Girvan.
Graziano's chippy has a cafe, but it looks closed. No, wait, there's someone in there. I check it's OK to come in just for a brew rather than a meal, that's just fine. We drink up while chatting. All the while inside my head I have visions of a nasty N.I.P. in the post, high insurance, prison and despair. Come on Ren there's a million others been in my situation -you're being dramatic.
I am hypervigilant on our return. I'm desperately trying to remember where we were when Rob got stuck by the truck. It was definitely dual carriageway. We pull in to Crossraguel Abbey's car park with a mind to look around. Rob looks at the sign, £4.50 each!! After a brief consultation we decide it's not really worth it for heathens like ourselves, we continue to head towards Kilmarnock.
Rob did snap a crafty one of the Abbey through the gate.
There's one bit of dual carriageway that is 50 approaching the roundabout but 70 elsewhere. Was that it, was that the cause of the confusion? Did I come past the truck in the 70 and Rob got stuck at the 50? Oh I dunno. I seem to recall a roundabout but there's loads of roundabouts along the A77. Enough Ren, enough of this. We're east of Ayr and I figure if we head east into the countryside it could be more interesting than this main road and my head freaking out. I lead us east into the countryside.
Google Timeline informs me later I've taken the B743 - and I have made a good choice. We pass through a couple of agreeable villages, between we find plenty of bends and curves of all kinds. It has been a while since I "gave it the beans" and I have Sharon on the back - but I'm going to "give it the beans"! Brum brum BRAAP - we're off. Power along the straight, line up for to the left, peel in, hold, hold, wait for the vanishing point to open... then power!
In my head I'm the fastest thing alive. In reality I'm making progress within the speed limits and within my abilities. It's worth noting Rob's on a 300kg VN900 Cruiser and he's keeping up so I'm not pushing the envelope here, I bet Mark's ZZR600 has barely reached 4,000 revs. Still, it matters not because I'm having fun! Fun? That will never do Ren - please return to fretting about your potential speeding ticket, the readers don't like you having fun.
We stop at Mauchline petrol station where Rob gets more Haribo to feed his sugar addiction. The A76 leads us back to Kilmarnock's Tesco once again for a fuel up and more supplies and then back to the bungalow. We've managed to complete around 70 miles with barely any rain at all, just the odd drops and spits and spots here and there. Maybe this week won't be a total washout after all.
The church at Mauchline.
Rik arrives soon after. We tell him of yesterday's drowning while he gloats of his comfortable, warm, and dry drive up here. We help him get his "pink" Harley off the "pink" trailer without much fuss then we retire inside as it starts to rain a little.
Rob is making tea once again, we are lucky in that he appears to enjoy cooking so we don't have to do it. Chilli, but not from a tin? Nooooo! Minced meat, herbs, spices, vegetable things and I don't know what. In between I wash up, Rik settles in and we generally keep each other entertained with nonsense. Robs chilli makes me nervous, I'm a fussy eater. I need not worry, it is scrumptious!
There's talk of where we could go and Rik has a cunning and devious, and possibly questionable plan. 5 ferries. It is well known I like a ferry and the notion of 5 of them is enticing. But... Rik's plan could go horribly wrong. From here to Arran, off Arran on the northern end to The Mull of Kintyre Peninsula, back to The Cowal Peninsula, onto Bute in the north then off Bute's east side.
5 Ferries. What could possibly go wrong?
This is all fine and the timetables suggest it is do-able. Erm... what happens if we get caught with a ferry service not running, a breakdown that slows us down, or any other mishap? This could lead to one of two problems. Either a long ride around the various peninsulas back to the bungalow or - gulp - being stuck on an island, most likely Bute. Hmmmm. I have my doubts.
Only one ferry on this route needs prebooking, Troon to Arran. Eventually, bravely I book everyone on the Troon to Arran ferry for Tuesday as weatherwise that looks the best day. 5 bikes, 5 riders, 150 miles and 5 ferries - what could POSSIBLY go wrong?
We are all early to bed again and the bungalow is once more peaceful (save for Mark's snoring which luckily no-one else can hear) by 1030. Golly gee we are all so wild, zany, out there and dynamic! 5 roughty toughty bikers all needing to be in bed long before the witching hour.
It has been a good first day. The weather was kind, Sharon has new waterproofs, our ride to Girvan wasn't exactly life changing yet still enjoyable, and we are all here and well. All I have left to fret about is my potentially criminal activity. Dagnammit I can't sleep now. Pfffffft.
By Sharon Parker
Todays first priority is new waterproof pants for me. My Daytona boot is still soaking wet, despite being near the radiator all night, but luckily I have brought a second pair of bike boots with me. These are new boots, Falco Zarah, and I'm obsessed with then. They are so super comfortable like spongy slippers but have D30 armour and look great. My Daytona boots are extremely well made and fit for purpose, well they were before the leak, but not exactly a fashion statement.
Falco Zarah in olive green, I just love them
I am having a day off my bike today and I am firstly being pillion with Rob so I can give a pillion opinion on his new bike, a Kawasaki VN900. I'm not a personal fan of cruisers from a riding perspective but let's see what happens as a pillion passenger.
We haven't even get onto the main road yet and Rob suddenly passes me his left handlebar grip - saying "here hold this!" Errr, erm - well that's unexpected the grip has obviously come asunder. We stop and he puts it back on and says it will fine, for now. Ok sure that's fine... I hope. I have never before been on the back of any of Rob's bikes but we have ridden alongside him for years. He is a good competent rider and I trust his judgement, I think.
My judgement of his bike, after the short ride into town, does not endear me to cruisers any further. I found the suspension too harsh as a passenger, feeling most bumps on the road and the seating position is to upright for me personally. Rob's riding is great but I'm going back to the Honda for the rest of today's ride.
I purchase a cheap pair of Gelert waterproofs for £20. I don't expect them to be particularly waterproof on the bike, they are geared for walking in showers, but it's the best they have and they will suffice for now. The sun has come out so they won't be required at the moment anyway for the journey to Girvan.
Girvan is ok. It's a very ordinary harbour town. I'm not really getting that Scottish Highland high so far. I guess that's due to not being in the Highlands, the roads here are busy too and it just doesn't give me that feeling of space and freedom I equate with being in Scotland.
It's ok is Girvan but not as nice as my new boots.
There's a beach!
Ren finds a road he enjoys on the way back to the bungalow and Rik arrives shortly after our return. We spend an enjoyable evening eating and chatting. We are good friends, comfortable and easy in one another's company. It's a good happy atmosphere and we clink our glasses to friendship and happy holidays. I feel a warm glow inside. I'm not sure if it's a glow of friendship and the thought of the fun to be had on our trip or the wine I'm drinking but whatever it is I'm feeling very happy.
Happiness, good food, good friends and biking adventures ahead.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
5 Fools For Kilmarnock - Prologue
The tales of mishap and trepidation leading up to this adventure is not for the faint hearted. Gird your loins we're only at the planning stage so far...
Bungling To The Bungalow
The first day of the South West Scotland Adventure is a total washout. Ren is moist and Sharon is leaking - and yet it's not all bad at the end of the day.
Let The Fun And Fretting Begin
It's the first ride out of the week, an easy one to get things going. Girvan provides the destination for a simple ride that'll get Ren fretting as usual.
Reader's Comments
Bogger said :-
Dear Editor, please be advised that I have cancelled my subscription to 'Bikes and Travels '.
I initially signed up for tales of hardship, hours in the saddle in monsoon riding conditions and near death experiences. Of being trapped in a cheap inappropriate tent in raging blizzard conditions.
What have we come to. I'll tell you what we've come to.
Posh bungalows with proper soft beds. You've even taken along a man servant to do all the cooking. Thirty five mile bike rides. Oh deary deary me.
I have now subscribed to a much more racy and daring tome. It's called Saga monthly, I think I'll get my kicks there from now on.
Oh one more observation. Ferries? Ferries? You should swimming naked with the bike strapped to your back. For heavens sake.
Edit I've just had the thought of you being naked and can't unthink it. Keep your clothes on, for everyones sake.
Bogger
22/07/2025 10:29:33 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
If you cancel your subscription I shall send you nudes...
Oh come on! You did get a deluge on the first day - "Bungling To The Bungalow". But yeah OK. Nice bungalow. Nice cooking from the "man servant". Nice easy mileages. It's all gone to pot ain't it. I suppose all the readers can look forward to now are your own European expeditions on small motorcycles with random aged acquaintances.
I apologise for my distinct lack of suffering...
22/07/2025 11:31:18 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
My cheque is in the post Ed.
Phew,
Upt.
22/07/2025 12:08:04 UTC
nab301 said :-
"Did you know Ailsa Craig is where the stone comes from to make curling stones?"
No, but I do now ! An interesting bit of info and an amazing shape.
Nigel
22/07/2025 14:34:59 UTC
Bigngreen said :-
Good news with the A77 speed cameras. They are forward facing only.
Unlike the cops.
22/07/2025 18:00:44 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Thanks Bigngreen - it's well over 4 weeks since and so far I haven't been arrested or had a letter. Ideally I'd like to think I wasn't speeding in the first place, I do try very hard not to.
22/07/2025 18:57:51 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
We overnighted there Ed on the way to Mull. Nice ordinary sort of town. It had a very good Indian restaurant if my memory recall is recalling.
Upt.
24/07/2025 09:55:00 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Was that the Isle of Mull or the Mull of Kintyre Upt'? And trust you to find the curry house. Making me hungry now.
25/07/2025 07:49:22 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
On your map we went over on 5 and back on 4.
But of course my recollection was poor, age innit, I obviously meant Bute.
In my head I still think it was Mull but we went to there from somewhere completely different.
I promise to try harder.
Pffffffftttttt.
Now, have I put my pants on?
25/07/2025 08:06:16 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
At least I was right about the Girvan curry house.
https://yasminsindiancuisine.com/...
25/07/2025 08:29:40 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Goodness I'm really hungry now - should not have clicked on that link.
So Bute not Mull. Gotcha, right. I mean they're only 100 miles apart, easy mistake to make. Did you have a look around Bute? Nice island, we liked it back in 2019.
https://bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=7217...
25/07/2025 13:39:58 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Don't cheek ya elders, blummin whipper snappers.
We had one night on Bute (I still want to type Mull, where incidentally we've also overnighted) me duck, stayed at Rothesay then off the North to Loch Ness the following day....wished we'd stayed on Bute, pffffffftttttt.
This a view from the digs, it was high 80's for the whole trip. Blummin lovely if a little sweaty. Although Er'Indoors only glowed.
We did ride around the Island on the day we arrived from Girvan and then North to the small ferry.
Upt.
25/07/2025 17:57:08 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
That's a mighty fine picture Upt'. I'm glad (surprised) you have such fond if fuzzy memories. As for cheeking my elders - with each passing year I have fewer and fewer elders, I need to make the most of them!
28/07/2025 07:10:13 UTC
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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland