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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe
Stuck In The Cols - Painful!
Ride Date 17 Sep 2025
By Andy Gray
Day 5: Tour de France climbs 315 miles
Today was going to be a very long day but it ended up being a lot, lot longer than I ever imagined. 11 hours out on the bike, most of that spent riding!
One of the routes on the campsite website goes into France and takes in some of the climbs used by the Tour de France. Last year the road or tunnel to France was closed so it made the already long route unfeasible.
The route heads west along the N-260 to Ainsa then steadily climbs up to 1,700m where the Bielsa Tunnel takes you through the mountain into France. Bit of a wait as they are doing works in the tunnel so it is one direction at a time.
Once down the other side I was in need of a drink and as it was midday, I decided on lunch at a convenient place in Saint-Lary-Soulon.
Just up the road it’s a left turn and you’re climbing Col d’Aspin to 1,489m. Great views of the Pyrenees from the top. In the distance you can see the observatory on the Pic du Midi, the next goal is somewhere below there.
First there is the twisty descent which is always fun. This is all the D-918 which then climbs Col du Tourmalet to 2,115m. Very busy with cyclists and motorcyclists. Looking down the far side the descent looked pretty hairy. This was one where the cyclists can go down faster than motorbikes as I found when I tried to catch up some guy on a bicycle!
A few valley roads and a trip through the large Thermal Spa town of Argeles-Gazost before climbing again. First up the Col du Soulor 1,474m then after a short descent up the Col d’Aubisque to 1,709m. At some point a UK car club of 3 Porsches and 2 BMWs caught me so I let them past while I took some photos. Then they got stuck in a row of three cars so they waved me back through.
There was some excitement at the top of the Aubisque as the rescue helicopter was there. Got to feel the draft when it took off and seeming disappeared over the edge.
Another scary descent down thru the towns of Gourette (with no road surface) and Les Chalets de l’Ossau. People coming in the opposite direction were waving at me and I found out why a few km further on. There were a few bikes and a car by a Route Barre sign, it appears there’d been an accident possibly between a car and a cow. The road was going to be closed for 4-5 hours.
This was only a few miles short of where I needed to turn south at Eaux-Bonnes and head back into Spain. Due to the mountains, there are not many roads through them! This was around 15:30 and I’d been out since 09:30, I had no internet access to check for alternate routes and my maps covered Spain only! The satnav didn’t know about the closed road so was trying to force me to go the way I couldn’t.
Decided to retrace my steps as far as Argeles-Gazost where I’d be able to work out a new route. This meant going over both the Aubisque and Soulor but at least in a different direction. The new route headed north to Lourdes (needed some divine intervention) then east along the motorway to come back through the mountains where I’d crossed this morning.
In total I ended up doing an extra 45 miles. If I’d had internet access I would’ve found a road north from Col du Solour which would’ve bypassed the accident and would’ve added 50 miles but a lot more time as it was all tiny mountain roads.
Got back to the campsite just after dark feeling rather rough as I’d been suffering with a cold since last night.
Tunnel back thru to France.
View from the French side.
Col d’Aspin looking back the way I’d come up.
Looking where I’m heading next.
At the top of the Col du Tourmalet.
Yep, I’m going down there.
Cycling statues on the Col d’Aubisque.
Share your tale - long or short - click here.
A long Ride to Gien
Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain
It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees
With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
An Easy Day Around The Pyrenees
Andy is taking it easy today. Just a casual bimble around The Pyrenees, across mountains and valleys, you know, the sort of easy ride we all do on a lazy day. Ever more delightful images too.
Stuck In The Cols - Painful!
Andy is enjoying all the mountain passes on the French side of The Pyrenees - until he's "Route Barre" from getting back to the campsite. He's got the sniffles too.
Reader's Comments
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Great pics Andy, and brings back memories. I was actually once overtaken by a cyclist when descending - I think - the Col d'Aubisque when I was on the Commando. Crazy doesn't come close.
18/11/2025 09:45:59 UTC
nab301 said :-
Some more great photos of great scenery, as for the crazy cyclists It must be even more difficult for the motorcycles filming the Tour , with a camera man pillion either standing up or facing backwards...
Nigel
18/11/2025 15:25:48 UTC
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Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe