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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland
Bigger Scenery South Of Biggar
Ride Date 13 June 2025
By Ren Withnell
Oooh, Friday the 13th. I'm not superstitious. Yes I am, who am I kidding. I'm sure we'll be fine. I hope.
So we've been north, west, south and east - north east. Today we're heading south east. Sharon's found a picturesque waterfall somewhere not too far from a place I've been meaning to have a look at - Talla Linnfoots. It came up on one of those "top 10 nice places" lists and I marked it on my maps quite some time since.
Kilmarnock to Talla Linnfoots / The Grey Mare's Tail.
Again though another 75 mile ride there means another 150 mile ride - plus looking around. And the weather forecast ain't the best. My hip has been giving me grief and we've got a 225 mile ride home tomorrow. Phew! But on the other hand I'll be back in work Monday wishing I was out on the bike. You have to make hay when the sun shines, you have to ride as much as you can when you're not working. Pfffffft I'm long overdue retirement.
It's a slow and easy start to the day. Outside it's grey and occasionally raining, the mood within is still jovial and friendly although I'm feeling a sense of impending doom as this is our last day here. It's getting on for 1000 by the time we're donning jackets and starting engines.
As we leave Kilmarnock's streets and onto the A76 south the heavens open. We're already waterproofed up so it's not an issue save for the lack of visibility. Sharon's always nerdily prepared, she'll have washed her visor. Me? Of course not so not only am I looking through rain but visor grime as well. Note to self - clean visor. If I had a pound for every time I've promised to do this I would be retired by now.
At Mauchline we take a left onto the B743 eastwards. Ahh, good. The rain has eased, I can see, and the road is a good one flowing well through gentle hills. Farmland mixes with moorland, the road is quiet and the speeds are rising. Not fast, just moving well.
The A70 is wider and more open. Sharon definitely prefers these fast open view roads to blind bends and sharp corners. As patches of dry road appear she's no problem maintaining the speed limit, I sense she's almost pushing me from behind to go faster but even sat-nav says that's fast enough. The hardy grasses are a blur, the hills roll by easily and the odd towns we pass through are fine. We're making good progress.
After a fuel stop in Douglas, sat-nav - being set to avoid motorways - leads us to the A702 and B7076. This road clings to the main A74M in a most delightful manner. We cross over and under the motorway, we see it and follow it and yet we have this road to ourselves and the fun of bends and junctions. The hills are getting steeper and larger, the rain has all but gone and there's a hint of lightness to the clouds. It's alright this innit.
Moffat is familiar. We get parked in the market area and find a cafe, Rumblin' Tum 2 apparently. Just as we're doing this the skies darken, timed to perfection I'd say. We grab a brew and a scone or 2, just taking a breather and a pee break. We're not here long but I'm glad we stopped.
The A708 leaves Moffat with trees and at times narrow lanes, it's damp and murky, greasy with foliage at the roadside. Then we start to climb, out of the trees into a much larger geography of hills, perhaps mountains, and long open valleys. The road has cleared of foliage, the tarmac is drying and once again we're moving a little faster. This is... no, not Highland or Alpine, oh what is it? Big, big scenery.
BIG, the landscape is BIG.
We're here already! Here being a small gravel car park for The Grey Mare's Tail Waterfall. I have a little look up the path - yeah great but it's just a thin waterfall, Niagara has nothing to worry about. Sharon and Rob walk up aways on the hillside while Rik and I just chill in the car park. I'm looking at that 240 section rear tyre on Rik's Harley - how the hell does he get that thing around bends?
She's Off. You might just see Rik's Unicorn too if you look closely.
There are more bends ahead for Rik to heave that massive tyre through. The A708 is single carriageway 2 way, fast, flowing and pretty. There's a loch or two we whizz by, the odd remote houses, and a selection of tree covered hillsides too. Then we take a left at Cappercleuch onto smooth single track, heading uphill for quite some time.
No, no it's not Highland scenery, the hills are round, there's less rocks poking out from the thick spiky grasses. It does share that strong sense of scale, of vastness, of distance, of magnificence. Logic dictates we're only say 40 miles from Edinburgh and 20 miles from Peebles yet if something were to go wrong here help would feel a long long way away. I'm probably going a little too quick on this single track, slow down and take it in Ren.
We crest a hill with vast views down into a high valley. Wow, stunning, this feels incredibly remote. A mile more of imposingly huge landscape, through a gap between the folds of the earth and suddenly we can see down into a valley with Talla Reservoir in it's bosom. Ok, fair play. These "Top 10" lists can be disappointing clickbait, this one has made a good call.
Big... and impressive. Talla Linnfoots is as advertised.
We stop momentarily for a picture then ride down into the valley for a stretch and to get more pictures, and a natter too. The weather is being kind to us by not raining, comfortable temperatures, and enough clouds for dramatic images without drenching us. There's a neat house here with a huge outbuilding, this must be a hell of a place to live. I think it's lovely, bit too remote for me though. I'd frighten myself to death with thoughts of werewolves and vampires on a stormy night.
Beautiful place to live, there's no Aldi nearby though.
Beyond Talla Linnfoots we join the A701. Sat-nav wants us to go south east back towards Moffat, I turn north west towards Biggar. Sat-nav reroutes and away we go. It is still really charming here, farmland and a few more houses, although a shower wets the road to slow our progress.
Somewhere beyond Biggar I have managed to get us lost, even with sat-nav. I think I missed a turning and now we're on single track, practically farm track, and I'm having flashbacks to the accidental off-roading we did in Devon a couple of years back. Turn left, turn left-right-left, uphill, down dale, turn right-left-left. I'm beginning to think sat-nav has lost the plot. I lose Rob at some point too. Poop.
Then, as if by magic, a main road appears. That's a relief but we're still missing a Rob and there's nowhere safe to stop. I'm not too worried, he's a big boy is Rob and he has his own sat-nav. I do manage to find a small recess of gravel we can pull into, just to check the phones and perhaps give him a minute. No messages and we're about to set off when over yonder a single headlight comes into view. It's Rob.
The ride back to the bungalow is comfortably uneventful. We're sure to fill up in preparation for tomorrow's ride home, grab a few more supplies from the supermarket, and then settle in for our last evening here. While we're at it there's a healthy amount of cleaning going on. The bungalow was lovely when we got here, we intend to return it in at least a reasonable condition and we don't want to be rushing in the morning.
I live on my own, I have done now for 23 years or thereabouts. There are the odd occasions where I get "lonely" but more often than not I'm not lonely just bored. I have an odd thought this evening, after spending the last 7 nights in the company of other people - when I get home I'll be all alone again! For a moment I feel quite sad about this.
No, don't be silly Ren. What you're saying is you've had a good week and you don't want this good week to end. We've not been falling out and sulking, we've not been backstabbing because he never washes up and she's eaten all the biscuits. It's always easier when everyone is on holiday and in a good mood, we only spend a week together once a year anyway. It also helps that they are good people.
This is the perpetual problem with holidays. This is the perpetual problem with having fun and being happy actually - you can't be perpetually happy see. At some point reality and life will catch up and the fun is over. This is why I prefer being a miserable curmudgeon - if you're up the only way is down, if you're down the only way is... no don't be silly... if you're down there's less distance to fall.
I'm kidding I'm kidding. Like any other human being I have good days and bad days. These last days have been good days and I suppose I would like more. Rather than being sad that this is the last evening I ought to be supremely thankful for the good week I've enjoyed. That's better - I'm not sad I'm appreciating how well it's all panned out.
Bed, that is too much thinking for someone as dumb as me.
By Sharon Parker
I am looking forward to today's ride. I hope my suggestion of a visit to the Grey Mare's Tail waterfall proves to be a good ride for everyone. However, before I can enjoy the ride I first have to navigate the bike out of the bungalow's car park. I seem to have suddenly developed the annoying habit of messing up right turns on the bike.
There is nothing particularly difficult about coming out of the bungalow other than the fact it is a right turn. I have already messed this up on a couple of occasions, almost putting myself into the hedge one of those times. I never used to have an issue so why now? I do manage to exit the bungalow. It is a slow and a little wobbly right turn, but at least I avoided nearly becoming part of the hedge this time.
Ren takes us on a great route to the waterfall and I really enjoy the sweeping curves and bends.
Happy to be here.
Rob and I take the path up to the top of the waterfall. We are layered up with both heavy bike gear and waterproofs so it makes the steep climb quite hard. I'm puffing and blowing like an old steam train. As we near the top of the waterfall we are stopped by some railings. The path has eroded away in parts at this point and you are advised to go no further. Being the rebellious type and determined to get to the top, we ignore the advice and carefully slide ourselves around the railings and carry on.
Although we can carry on a little ways further, eventually the path does disappear completely and we are unable to carry on right to the top. But we are happy to have made it this far.
As close as we could get.
We return to the bikes and continue on with today's adventure. We are graced with more good roads and some lovely scenery. Talla reservoir is a site to behold. The wind has picked up and the sky layered with various shades of grey looks ominous. This however lends itself to some very dramatic and beautiful photographs of the reservoir.
Stunningly atmospheric.
This feels more like Scotland.
The ride back home features the usual single farm track that Ren's satnav loves to take us all on. Fortunately this time it is only a fairly short stretch and we all stay upright. It has been a really good day with some lovely riding and scenery. I think we saved the best to last on this occasion.
Today felt more like the Scotland I love. It was not the Highlands but it did have mountains, waterfalls, reservoirs, quite bendy roads and that sense of remoteness that I crave. I am happy I found us this route and grateful as ever for Ren leading us all.
Advertise here - contact ren@bikesandtravels.com
5 Fools For Kilmarnock - Prologue
The tales of mishap and trepidation leading up to this adventure is not for the faint hearted. Gird your loins we're only at the planning stage so far...
Bungling To The Bungalow
The first day of the South West Scotland Adventure is a total washout. Ren is moist and Sharon is leaking - and yet it's not all bad at the end of the day.
Let The Fun And Fretting Begin
It's the first ride out of the week, an easy one to get things going. Girvan provides the destination for a simple ride that'll get Ren fretting as usual.
Some Rain, A Unicorn, And Disorder
What is Ren doing today? No, he doesn't know either. Mist, rain, cafes and slippery roads are on the menu, plus there's a new member in the group.
5 Ferries In One Day
5 ferries? In one day!? Surely not (don't call me Shirley). That'll be 5 fools on 5 bikes attempting to use 5 different ferries. What could possibly go wrong? Not a lot thankfully.
The Rhins Of Galloway
It's another grand day out for 5 fools in Kilmarnock. There's sunshine, forest, hills, a lighthouse, and a harbour. There's also guilt, a lack of tea, and all kinds of strange places.
The Kelpies - Again
It's Deja-Vu time for Ren and Sharon. It's traffic and town riding too. Sharon manages to find some lovely green stuff to brighten the day.
Bigger Scenery South Of Biggar
Sharon has suggested today's destination with Ren putting in an add-on. It's a part of the UK less explored, which is a shame, but at least it's quiet.
Reader's Comments
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Another good day and some great pics. I use Pledge spray on polish on the outside of my visor - cleans well and leaves a film that beads the rain and helps it run off. Not that I ride in the rain when I can avoid it.
On the inside I use Rain-X anti-fog which does a good job of preventing misting although using an open face helmet I have far less of an issue with this than I would with a full-face lid.
12/12/2025 10:19:34 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
The biggest thing for me Ian is to clean my damn visor! It's all fine and good when the weather is OK, I'll do a hundred miles here then 150 there etc and all the time grime is building up. Throw in the odd light shower to get more grime, add mucky fingers. All good, just the merest of hint that the visor is dirty when it's dry. Then the rain comes and the grime "seems" to provide a seed for the mist on the inside to form and the rain to loiter on the outside.
If I wash it I'm good. I've tried all kinds of lotions and potions over the years. RainX, Bob Heath, something that looked like a block of wax, even pinlock double glazing. They all do work to some extent but it's hard enough for me to be arsed cleaning my visor, let alone diligently applying treatments at the start of each ride. Wash the visor with any kind of soap or washing up liquid, rinse, and leave the visor partially open. Job's a guddun.
12/12/2025 10:41:16 UTC
ROD¹ said :-
I believe Upt' recommended this area a while ago. I have it on my wish list, and hope to visit soon.
I am also guilty of not cleaning the visor, but if you carry a cloth the rain can be a good opportunity to get it clean.
12/12/2025 12:55:43 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
You were in my back yard Ed.
Go on, be brave, did she eat all the biscuits?
I know, I know, what happens on the road stays on the road. But did she?
Upt.
12/12/2025 13:45:10 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
About 2 squid at Home Bargains or Yorkshire Trading. Never without it on a trip. Cleans in and out and anti fogs.
You're welcome.
12/12/2025 18:55:37 UTC
Ren - The Ed¹ said :-
Home Bargains!??! I'm not made of money Upt'. I'll have a look for them next time. As for the biccies - no Sharon did not eat all the biccies - I did. I'm just blaming Sharon as I always do.
15/12/2025 14:05:53 UTC
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Travel Stories5 Fools In South West Scotland