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Everyone Has Their Troubles
Ride Date 22 Sep 2025
By Bogger
Monday day 7
Were both up at a reasonable hour and we finalise packing our bags and load up the bikes. We give them both a check over and I put about 100ml of oil in the Majesty. We give the Air BNB a clean and a hoover and make sure everything is as we found it. We are away at dead on 10.00am, into a slight drizzle and cooler temperatures. The roads are wet but it’s perfectly fine for riding in. We are retracing our steps from the journey down and I’m using the phone for guidance.
The first of our waypoints, Angouleme, is reached within the hour, now it’s onto the town of Ruffec. We’d brimmed the tanks the night before so we have enough fuel for a good three hours riding. The rain has now disappeared but it’s definitely chillier today. I’d left my thermal linings out - I should have put them back in?
We’re heading North up the A10 and the roads were as good as on the way down, strange that. Ruffec comes and goes but we carry on along the A10 until we get to the intersection at the village of Les Maison Blanches. At Les Maison Blanches, some nine miles North of Ruffec we have to join the D948 and head East.
Before we’d set of in the morning me and Pete had decided to just mile munch as much as possible and get the day's riding as short as reasonably possible. This doesn’t mean we weren’t enjoying ourselves, we most definitely were, but let’s not hang about for the sake of it.
The really big city we were heading for was Nantes, but this was still a hundred and forty miles away. The next city on our list was Niort. Well at least I thought it was. Mr phone sat nav had other ideas. We’ve now peeled off the D948 and onto the D45 to Lezay. Where? Lezay! I can’t remember seeing that on the route map. Never mind.
The roads were really good, but how shall I describe them. Hmm, back roads would sum it up nicely. As ever on the French road system decent speeds were the order of the day and we were scuttling along at fifty to seventy most of the time. We both recalled one section of this road that really stood out. For a few miles it was completely and utterly covered in repair patches. I don’t think any of the original road surface was left, it was quite a sight.
Like on the journey down having to slow for the hamlets and villages slowed our overall speed down a bit. However the traffic didn’t, as there wasn’t any to speak of. We skirt La Mothe-Saint-Heray on the D45 ring road and head North East for the town/city of Parthenay. I’ve been keeping an eye on the fuel situation and we have only passed one petrol station and that was sixty miles ago.
The day has not warmed up at all. It’s pleasant enough but cold. We’ve not had a break yet so I spy a large layby and pull in. Pete is also cold. We have a drink a chat and a walk up and down the layby to try and warm up. I’m now down to less than a quarter of a tank of fuel. I know Pete’s ok at the moment as the Shadow's tank is larger than the Majesty, but not by a lot in regard to total range. I check the phone again and indeed we are heading in the right general direction and the phone is taking us to Parthenay. I said to Pete that we’ll fill up in Parthenay. So after a half hour stop, we’re on our way again.
Fifteen minutes later the traffic is building a little as we approach Parthenay. I’m following the phone directions and we find ourselves riding through housing estates. This just doesn’t seem right, so I pull over yet again to recheck on the phone. Yes, we are going in the right direction. I should have trusted it really, it was doing its usual most direct route type thing.
We’re both keeping an eye out for a petrol station, but you’re not going to find one on a housing estate in France. Before we knew it we’re out of Parthenay on the back roads again. The fuel situation was now getting desperate. Yes I could have set the phone to finding the nearest petrol station, but you just think that one will appear. Not in France pal!
Ten miles down the road in another small town there is an unmanned self-serve fuel station. At first I thought it was non-operational. Thankfully it was.
Bressiure was the next big town some distance along the N149. Once we had passed this the weather had warmed a little, which was a blessing. We then swung onto the E62 and were barrelling our way down the motorway towards Nantes. It’s now 2.00pm and we’ve had nothing to eat since breakfast. Time, for another stop?
We pull off the E62 at Grand Renard and consult the map. It’s just two miles to the petite town of Pont De Moine and a small supermarket and petrol station. That’ll do nicely, they even had toilets. Our stop was again brief, half an hour and with us and the bikes suitably re-fuelled, we’re on our way back to the E62 and Nantes.
After another hour of riding we’re close to Nantes. Of course by now it’s rush hour and the Nantes ring road was heaving with traffic. We’re trying to stay as close as possible so as not to get split up. Once past the chaos of Nantes we knew we were on the last leg of todays’ journey. Hoorah.
We’re still heading North East and in the general direction of Vannes. Some of the other names on the sign posts I also recognised, Reddon, Questembert, Ploermel etc. We had one last fuel stop to fill the tanks as we knew that tomorrow we were on a mission around the Brittany countryside with Ronan.
We finally arrive at Ronan's house in Malestroit at 6.00pm. It had been another long days ride but we both felt ok. Ronan was home and opened the electronic gate at the entrance to his drive. Pete was impressed with said gate and said he’s going to get one. Gate envy, who’d of thought that was a thing. Pete apparently.
Up to now on this holiday I’ve not kissed any blokes. By the time we set off for home in thirty six hours time, I’m disappointed if I don’t LOL. The French will not allow you to shake hands it’s kisses all round. Being British it doesn’t feel quite right, but hey ho when in France. To be honest they would be offended if you didn’t.
As we’re unloading the bikes and chatting I ask where Ronan's wife, Virginnie and his two children are, Paul and Rosa. Ronan's eyes roll skywards and he shakes his head. Unpack and I will tell you in a short while. Hmm, Something is amiss? We are shown to our respective bedrooms. I’m in the ‘cave’, a converted cellar and Pete’s upstairs in one of the bedrooms. Ronan's house is from the 1920’s and he’s spent a lot of time and money on superb renovations over the last few years.
Once we are settled in and have a beer in our hands he explains where everyone is. Rosa 13 is at her Grandmother's and will be home shortly. Alas yesterday she fell over and broke her arm which is now in plaster. Paul 10 also yesterday complained his stomach was hurting and was in hospital having his appendix out today. Virginnie was staying with him in hospital overnight.
Oh my God, all that trauma, then we turn up. Me and Pete felt really, really guilty. I thought he looked a little stressed when we arrived. No my friends it is a pleasure to have you here said Ronan with a genuine smile on his face. Really? So we had another of his beers to make him feel better. He then went on to prepare a meal for us. It just gets worse doesn’t it? We drank some more beer to ease the guilt.
After we’d eaten we jumped in his car for a short ride to the outskirts of Malestroit. A couple of years ago Ronan had bought a couple of acres of land to use as a recreation area for his family and to also keep bees there. He explained, on the drive down to his land, what was in store for us tomorrow. A classic car, extravaganza. Ooooooh.
When we arrived back at Ronan's. Rosa was there with her arm in plaster, but a beaming smile on her face. Kisses all round again.
We had a couple of more drinks and chatted away. You know what I feel a bit tired, time for bed.
Miles for the day 279mls
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Feet Forward Prologue
Bogger is organising his next French escapade. It's the who, why, what, and where this time, oh and the how. The why never makes sense, nor should it.
Naughty Boys On Strange Bikes
It's a discouraging start to Bogger's Feet Forwards French expedition. Not to worry, soon the 2 old men are sneaking around like naughty school kids.
Queasy Crossing And Useless Till Roll
Rain, wayward boarding passes, useless navigation systems, and rough seas - it's just another day in the life of a Bogger. As ever there's food and booze in the life of a Bogger too.
Haulin' Ass
It's gonna be a long long long ride for Bogger and Pete today. Our brave heroic riders are up to the task and it all seems rather easy overall. Hopefully the digs at the end of the ride will allow their asses to rest comfortably.
Feet Forward, Food, And Friends
It's a much more relaxed day for Bogger and Pete. There's a handful of miles to ride, people to meet, food to eat, and of course the odd beer.
The Art Of Doing Something That Is Nothing
Bogger has many plans for the day, alas the temptation of food and beer is more alluring. It's a chill day but that's fine, I'm sure there's more chaos to come.
Much More Something That Is Nothing
Another lazy day for Bogger before some big miles tomorrow. Ice cream this time with no mention of beer but I'm sure some was involved.
Everyone Has Their Troubles
A long, cold and moist ride today for Bogger and Pete. Turns out their host isn't having the best of days either. Fear not there's still beer and smiles.
Reader's Comments
Ian Soady¹ said :-
Good sounding trip. Most of the small French petrol stations have closed but there's almost always one attached to a supermarket and these are generally signed on entry to a town / village. But they often become self service at lunchtime. This is fine as long as you have an acceptable credit card. I remember once having to ask a friendly local to use his, repaying him in cash.
Back to Malestroit eh? We went there a couple of years ago in the caravan partly prompted by your description, and a lovely little place it is too. While we were there it was the nationwide music festival, and there were bands and singers on every street corner. Brilliant!
Speaking of Nantes, it's a brilliant place especially the Machines de l'Isle. This is where the Sultan's Elephant was made and they artisans continue to make wonderful imaginative devices. Well worth a detour or three.
10/04/2026 13:57:02 UTC
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