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Home Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe

Better Weather, Getting High, Warm And Cold

Ride Date 29 Sep 2025 

By Andy Gray

Day 17 - Arenas de San Pedro to Arcones 258 miles.

As the crow flies I haven’t gone very far today as I’m only around 95 miles to the north east, directly north of Madrid. But I’ve covered a lot of ground including mountains and flat plains. Started the day with breakfast at the hotel, I don’t normally bother but this was only €5 so I went for it. Fruit, toast, cake and tea was all good. I had a lot planned for today which I thought might be too much but I had the option of shortening if needed.
 
As I left it was 12C and clear sky. Started in the mountains behind the town that were hidden in the clouds yesterday, Sierra de Gredos. It was only a short detour onto tiny roads but it was eye opening as there had obviously been some serious forest fires recently. Whole areas were burnt and smell was really strong. It must’ve been really scary from the towns below but absolutely terrifying for the few people that live up there. None of the houses I saw looked as if they’d been damaged but the fires were on their fence lines.
 
After getting petrol in Mombeltran I headed north on the N-502 up the Puerto del Pico. This was one hell of a road only up to 1352m but it definitely woke me up. It was a nippy 10C at the top. On the map it looks like nothing but it was rather twisty. They are building a new Mirador at the top which should be rather spectacular when it’s done. Looks like a metal structure spaceship over the drop. Anyway, the goats at the top weren’t that impressed. 
 
The descent was very fast but the cars were still passing me. I’m looking at the route I planned and although it doesn’t show it I took a right turn here. This took me through a few climbs with large mountains (over 2000m) to my right that were in the clouds. I have photos from that road and one of the towns along the road where there were a few metal sculptures!
 
The AV-905/903 were spectacular and ended up going over the Puerto de Navalmoral at 1514m where it was 12C, windy and cloudy. The cloud seems to be stuck to the mountains. A lot of the town and village names start with Naval or Nava in this area. All I can find is that Naval means the same in English and Spanish as it is Latin. Not sure how that helps when we are about as far from the sea as you can get in Spain.
 
Anyway, carried on through Ávila and headed north into the flat plains. I was headed for Segovia with a 90 mile detour to see the 15th century Coca castle. This pretty castle is a very well maintained which seems unusual as most are ruins.
 
Here the temperatures were reaching 20C but as I headed south east to Segovia the temperatures dropped again. Mr Hodgson reminded me about the aqueduct in Segovia so I had to include it on my route at the expense of some mountains later in the day. It was worth it, I had a quick wander down the main drag but didn’t see anywhere I fancied to eat. Walking back towards the bike and I saw a McDonalds and Burger King so went for the latter!! 

The Sierra Norte de Guadarrama lie between Segovia and Madrid so it was here I was planning to play for the afternoon. After I got some fuel I amended my route to shorten it as it was almost 3pm and it would’ve been another 4.5 hours.
 
Unfortunately the first mountain climb was quite large and busy so I got stuck behind cars who were braking into the hairpins for most of it. Puerto de Navacerrada at 1,857m is a ski resort so was a nippy 10C. This was the only time when there were a few spots of rain. 

After a speedy descent on a smaller road, this led to the Puerto de la Morcuera 1,796m.

a map showing Andy's route east and north of Madrid
The shortened route of the day.
clear skies, bright sunshine, hills and scnery
First climb of the day.
The trees beside the side of the road are tall pines, to the right they're clearly burned
Lots of burnt stuff to the right.
Wonderful mountain scenery and below the narrow lane we can see the semicircular frame of the viewpoint being built
New mirador in progress.
small deer forage between rocks and hardy bushes
Sculpture of man with hair over his face and bull horns in some brown metallic material
Odd sculptures in Navalosa.
A tall slender sculpture seemingly made up of scrap steel items like shovels and wheels
A goat made from rusty old radiators, springs and the like
clear skies but in the distance moutains are topped my a layer of clouds
The mountains to the south over 2000 metres and in the cloud.
Flat yellow grass plains and Andy's bike beside the lonesome road
Some flat bits.
Trees and the road and between the trees a castle looking complete and grand
First sight of the castle.
Closer to the castle it looks almost new it's in such condition
We're close to a tower and the currently dry moat. THe stonework is crisp and fresh
Empty moat.
Set deep into the castle wall is a cross and circle cut-out presumanly for archers to shoot out of
the brickworks and stonework on the castle looks almost new. A tall tower
Such good condition. You could walk around the inner section but had to pay to go inside the main keep.
narrow passageway leads down steps into the bowels of the castle
I went down two levels and got a bit scared!
A bullring, looking "out of season" with scruff arena, the castle is behind
Bull ring next to the castle.
The gatehouse with archway and modern roads out front
This is the other end of the town wall that used to be joined to the castle.
Arches upon arches form a narrow slender and very long bridge of stone
Segovia aqueduct built with no mortar.
Heavy dark clouds begin to shroud a green hilltop
A mirador, viewpoint, with a compass set in stone and enormous views across a plain below the hills
Not sure if you could see Madrid from here on a clear day.
many arches form a railway bridge across the countryside between the mountains
Railway viaduct.
Vultures circle high overhead under grey heavy clouds

Share your tales be they long or short - click here.

A long Ride to Gien Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
An Easy Day Around The Pyrenees Andy is taking it easy today. Just a casual bimble around The Pyrenees, across mountains and valleys, you know, the sort of easy ride we all do on a lazy day. Ever more delightful images too.
Stuck In The Cols - Painful! Andy is enjoying all the mountain passes on the French side of The Pyrenees - until he's "Route Barre" from getting back to the campsite. He's got the sniffles too.
Poor Poorly Andy The sun is shining, the air is warm, the surroundings are lovely. Andy is rather under the weather himself, it's not the best couple of days.
Andy's Local Ride Feeling a little better Andy's having an easy day exploring The Pyrenees. Scenery aplenty while dodging some rain.
Back On The Road And Heading South Again Having mostly recovered Andy's back on the road making big miles through ever more stunning scenery. A few notes then pictures aplenty that'll make you wish you were there.
More Wonders, Weird Food It's another day filled with fabulous things for Andy. Knights and bends in the road, mountains and flat bits, and a posh hotel with a sunset.
The Omnipresence Of Olive Groves Andy's definition of a shorter ride is only 250 miles... sheesh. This time between the fabulous scenery and glorious weather it's olive groves as far as the eye can see.
To The Most Southern Tip Of Europe Andy reaches the final destination of this trip. "You can see Africa from 'ere".
Good Weather, Good Scenery, Bad Surfaces It's time for Andy to start the return leg of his big trip. It's all sunshine and hot weather, the views are still good too. The roads... well they're not quite as good. You can't have everything can you.
Heading North In The Rain It's wet, it's cold and Andy is just getting on with the business of travelling. There's not a lot to see, just a few notes from the day - and a beer.
Better Weather, Getting High, Warm And Cold Andy is still heading homewards while doing some serious looking around. Mountains, a castle, miradors, and architecture today.

Reader's Comments

Ian Soady¹ said :-
More great photos, thanks so much. I've never been to central Spain but it looks quite interesting. I love those aqueducts and keep meaning to go the Pont du Gard but haven't made it yet. Amazing how much the Romans built that's still in place - and often working - today. When you think how long HS2 is taking - will it ever finish? - it makes you wonder.

Our back garden abuts Icknield Street and I'm so tempted to dig up the tarmac and look for the Roman road underneath. Mind you if the potholes get much bigger I won't have to......
31/03/2026 16:04:57 UTC
Upt'North ¹ said :-
Very nice Andy, enjoyed that.
Upt.
31/03/2026 16:20:24 UTC

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