The city of Nice seen from the surrounding hillside bathed in sunshine
Nav Menu
Home Search This Site Contribute Contact BAT Repair-Chat Chit-Chat BAT Recommended Rides Follow BAT On Social Media BAT Stickers! Ren's Biking Blog Sharon's Biking Blog Guest Posts Bike Reviews Bike Gear Reviews Bike Tips Travel Stories Travel Tips Repair And Restoration BAT Recommended Rides Interesting Links Calculators And Converters GMail Login / Log Out

Home Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe

Not Much To Report, Save For More Wonderous Views

Ride Date 1 Oct 2025 

By Andy Gray

Day 19 - Pamplona to Périgueux 270 miles.

A bit of a boring day after an exciting start but that’s what you expect when you’ve got to cross France quite quickly. When I left Spain last year I had a few days to visit some sights. This year I’ve only got a few days to get back up through France as I’ve booked a place near Le Havre for Fri/Sat nights before heading to Calais.
 
Managed to leave around 9:30 when it was clear sky and 12C. Had to get fuel before crossing the Pyrenees. Instead of heading directly for the N-135 to cross via the Roncevaux Pass (1,035m), I chose some smaller roads to get there. After two junctions of motorway, I headed up quite a large road. There were a few tunnels, in the shaded valleys it was only 10C and in the sunny ones it was 15C.

The road got smaller and passed through a few small villages following the Urrobi river up the mountain. It was a windy 2nd/3rd gear ascent to join the main road. I hadn’t looked at the map so for some reason was expecting the border to be at the top. But no, there was a gnarly descent with the border being to the right of the road for a very long way before you cross into France at Arneguy. Pretty unceremoniously as there is just the small France signpost.
 
At this point the road turned into the D-933, I was going to get to know this road well as I was on it most of the day! Stopped at the supermarket in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to get some breakfast. Also picked up what was meant to be quiche for later. It was still warm and the top was covered in condensation.
 
It was now around 11am and by midday the Pyrenees had sadly disappeared from my mirrors. It was onwards and north-east wards for most of the afternoon.
 
Not a lot to note. 

Around 12:30 I was coming though Orthez and the traffic was very slow up a hill. Two years in a row I’ve got caught in school kicking out time. As I said last year, they seem to study very odd hours. I stopped to use the toilets in a supermarket at Hagetmau, just north of Pau and saw they had a sandwich shop. So I bought a huge €3.50 chicken salad baguette to go with my quiche. When I opened said quiche it didn’t look much like a quiche. In fact, it was potato gratin which is what the label said. There were definitely ones labelled quiche on the same shelf!! Anyway, I managed to eat it with my fingers.
 
Stopped to get petrol in Marmande at an automated supermarket pump. Filled the bike and tried to start it but it just turned over twice very slowly as if the battery was flat. Tried again with the same result. Had to push the bike into the supermarket car park so the people queued behind me could use the pump. Luckily it was pretty flat (the car park...). I was thinking the worse and that I’d have to try my breakdown service. Had a drink and a snack then tried again and it started perfectly. Think she just wanted a five minute rest after all the hard work she’s been put through. 

Arrived in Perigueux which is just north of Bergerac and found the gate to my accommodation on the banks of a small canal from L’Isle river. Looks like I’m lucky with this one. Behind the electric gate are two single story appartments, one where the owner lives and the other rented out. It has outdoor space, a large lounge kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. 

After I’d been shopping to get some dinner I took a quick wander around the town. It has been a settlement since 200BC and was a Roman city. St Front’s cathedral is quite pretty as are the small cobbled streets.

A tree covered hilltop with a thick whisp og cloud just starting to be blown away
Cloud clinging to the hill.
The shore of a reservoir with trimmed grass, smart houses to the left, hills to the right
Reservoir in Nagore on the way up the mountains.
Blue skies and tree filled angular hills and folds in the land seen between more trees
The only view from the pass down into France. Too many trees for a view anywhere else.
A blue sign stating various speed limits among thick tree coverage beside the road
The only sign you’re entering France.
Andy's 2/3 eaten bagette on the bike
2/3s of my baguette.
A slim river or canal, towpath, houses, and Andy's shadow stretching out a long way
I seem to have grown, this will help with all the weight I’ve put on.
Water, a weir, canoes, an old building, trees, and the river or canal and lake
The start of the canal where it splits from the river L’Isle.
A town, a tower, a river and a bridge, all perfectly reflected in the very still river
St Front Cathedral in the distance.
A tower and several building down a stone road, all in a light coloured stone looking old
Up Close.
St Fon'ts Cathedral from the front. Arches, large multi faceted buildings and the tower
And the front.
A very narrow cobbled street with tall light grey stone buildings imposing above
Little cobbled streets.
Another cobbled street, not so narrow and with shops and pedestrians
A cobbled square with a restaurant tables and trees and a building with a turret
One of the squares down the cobbled streets.
A large modern set of 3d letters spells PERIGEUEX and the modern town behind
A smart room with patio doors, we can see Andy's bike in outside
The lounge and secure parking for my bike.

Share your own travels - click here.

A long Ride to Gien Big miles already on Andy's first day on the road. He's just getting settled into the ride and making his way south through France.
Smiling In The Rain It's a soggy wet day through France for Andy, but that won't dampen his spirits. He stumbles upon 2CVs and climbing walls, straight roads and twisties.
Into The Pyrenees With improving weather Andy is still heading south. It's all terribly positive, even the diversions are opportunities to explore. The Pyrenees continue to impress.
An Easy Day Around The Pyrenees Andy is taking it easy today. Just a casual bimble around The Pyrenees, across mountains and valleys, you know, the sort of easy ride we all do on a lazy day. Ever more delightful images too.
Stuck In The Cols - Painful! Andy is enjoying all the mountain passes on the French side of The Pyrenees - until he's "Route Barre" from getting back to the campsite. He's got the sniffles too.
Poor Poorly Andy The sun is shining, the air is warm, the surroundings are lovely. Andy is rather under the weather himself, it's not the best couple of days.
Andy's Local Ride Feeling a little better Andy's having an easy day exploring The Pyrenees. Scenery aplenty while dodging some rain.
Back On The Road And Heading South Again Having mostly recovered Andy's back on the road making big miles through ever more stunning scenery. A few notes then pictures aplenty that'll make you wish you were there.
More Wonders, Weird Food It's another day filled with fabulous things for Andy. Knights and bends in the road, mountains and flat bits, and a posh hotel with a sunset.
The Omnipresence Of Olive Groves Andy's definition of a shorter ride is only 250 miles... sheesh. This time between the fabulous scenery and glorious weather it's olive groves as far as the eye can see.
To The Most Southern Tip Of Europe Andy reaches the final destination of this trip. "You can see Africa from 'ere".
Good Weather, Good Scenery, Bad Surfaces It's time for Andy to start the return leg of his big trip. It's all sunshine and hot weather, the views are still good too. The roads... well they're not quite as good. You can't have everything can you.
Heading North In The Rain It's wet, it's cold and Andy is just getting on with the business of travelling. There's not a lot to see, just a few notes from the day - and a beer.
Better Weather, Getting High, Warm And Cold Andy is still heading homewards while doing some serious looking around. Mountains, a castle, miradors, and architecture today.
Cracks, Vultures, And Cow Jams Andy is having a fascinating ride through Spain today. Cows that won't "moooooove", gaps in the scenery, gaps in the tarmac, and he's trying his hand at geology.
Not Much To Report, Save For More Wonderous Views All in all it's a fairly uneventful day on the road for Andy as he makes his way homeward bound. The scenery is good, the accommodation too, although the big GS has a "moment".

Reader's Comments

Post Your Comment Posts/Links Rules

Name
Comment
Add a RELEVANT link (not required)
Upload an image (not required) -

No uploaded image
Real Person Number
Please enter the above number below



Home Travel StoriesTo The Southern Tip Of Europe

Admin -- -- Service Records Ren's Nerding Blog
KeyperWriter
IO